The end of the
Vietnam war, and the advent of "Doi moi", Vietnam's
policy of opening its economy to foreign trade, means that
Westerners and South Vietnamese now have a chance to visit
Ha long. Vinh Ha Long or Bay of the Descending Dragon is
often touted by proud Vietnamese as the world's Eighth
wonder. One of the main attractions of Ha long is the bay's
calm water and the thousands of limestone mountains dotting
the seascape. The Bay's water is clear during the spring and
early summer. Some of the islands are quite large and there
are small alcoves with sandy beaches where swimming is
possible. Ha Long bay lies in the northeastern part of
Vietnam and is 165 Km from Hanoi.
Ha Long literally means descending dragon(s) and according
to local myth, the story goes as follows:
Long ago when their forefathers were fighting foreign
invaders from the north, the gods from heaven sent a family
of dragons to help defend their land. This family of dragons
descended upon what is now Ha Long bay and began spitting
out jewels and jade. Upon hitting the sea, these jewels
turned into the various islands and islets dotting the
seascape and formed a formidable fortress against the
invaders. The locals were able to keep their land safe and
formed what is now the country of Vietnam. The Dragon family
fell so much in love with this area for its calm water and
for the reverence of the people of Vietnam that they decided
to remain on earth. Mother dragon lies on what is now Ha
Long and where her children lie is Bai Tu Long.
The dragon tails formed the area of Bach Long Vi known for
the miles of white sandy beaches of Tra Co peninsula
This myth is in line with the Vietnamese myth of their
origin Con Rong Chau Tien. This myth describes the
union between a king (representing the dragon) and his bride
(representing a goddess) giving birth to 100 children which
are the ancestors of the Vietnamese people. The Ha Long myth
illustrate the Vietnamese belief of their origin and the
fact that throughout their history, they are aided by their
ancestors, the dragon and the gods, in the defense of their
land.
Scorched Beach
(Bai Chay)
Upon arriving in
Ha Long city, the visitor will be driving along 'Bai Chay'
or scorched beach. The sand on this stretch of beach is
dark. And judging by the name the visitors may mistakenly
think that this is due to the dry climate or lack of wind in
this area. However, contrary to this interpretation, the
area is quite pleasant during the summer and fall months and
the temperature here is around 70 deg F. According to the
locals, Bai Chay got its name long ago, based on another
historical event. Bai Chay was once a forest. In 1287, the
Mongols led by the great Truong Van Ho,(a Vietnamese name
for this Mongolian general) attacked Vietnam and was driven
back by general Tran Khanh Du. Many Mongolian ships were set
afire and drifted to shore aided by high wind setting the
forest on fire. Since then this stretch of beach became
known as Bai Chay or scorched beach.
From Bai Chay, visitors can hire a boat and go out to the
bay. It is here that visitors will be find some of Southeast
Asias most fascinating sites. Visitors to the bay speak
highly of its almost mystical qualities and the surrealistic
scenery that defines this bay. The limestone formations are
both bizarre and awesome. Over thousands of years the base
of many of the formation have corroded to a point where many
seem to be balancing on thin air. The shapes and the
positioning of these formations often resemble people,
animals etc., hence, most are given a name by the locals.
Some of the more famous are: Hang Dau Go ( Wooden Stakes
cave), Hang Bo Nau (Pelican cave), Hang Trinh Nu (the
Virgin), Hang Sung Sot (Cave of Awe), Dong Hang Hanh, Dao
Tuan Chau (Sentinel Chau Island), Qua Chuong (the bell), Con
Voi (the elephant) etc.. Now, about one thousand formations
have names. One can't possibly see all of Ha Long grandeur
in one day or even a month since depending on the time of
the year, the weather, or the condition of the bay the
visitor may see only one small aspect of Ha Long's beauty
Hang Dau Go is one
of the most beautiful cave at Ha Long. The name, Dau Go or
Giau Go, has direct ties to the history of Vietnam.
According to the locals, while preparing for the Mongolian
attacks in 1288, general Tran Hung Dao, sent a convoy to
this area to cut wood from this region. Wooden stakes were
then fashioned from the wood and hidden in Dau Go cave. The
stakes were embedded in Bach Dang river to form a barrier
against the attacking Mongols. According to legend, general
Tran Hung Dao dealt a great blow to the Kublai Khan when he
tricked the Mongolian army into chasing him deep up Bach
Dang's channel. When the tide were down the enemies were
stuck in these wooden stakes driven into the river bed. Dau
Go was also the site where general Tran Khan Du hid his
force while waiting for the Mongols led by Truong Van Ho in
1287.
Dau Go is located on a limestone islet 8 km south of Bai
Chay. The islet itself stands 187 m above sea level. Upon
arriving visitors must hike the 90 rocky steps that lead to
the cave's entrance. There are three chambers with the outer
one having the most spectacular stalagmites and stalactites.
Some are as tall as 20 m in height. The locals claim that
these giant formations resemble human forms and are the
keepers or guardians of Dau Go cave. The outer chamber is
also the largest with capacity for three to four thousand
people. The cave's floor is approximately 6 m lower than the
entrance and the distance from floor to ceiling is
approximately 25 m.
The middle chamber is accessible through a narrow passage
approximately 1.4 m wide. There is a round crystal like
structure on the path. When struck by light, this structure
emits a kaleidoscope of light that is both breathtaking and
unique. The inner chamber is famous for the colorful
stalagmites and stalactites.
The inner chamber is much smaller by comparison. It is here
that visitors will find stone wells filled with fresh water.
According to the locals these wells are filled year round.
Dau Go is probably the most famous of all grottoes in
Ha Long. Since its discovery, many Vietnamese dignitaries
have visited Dau Go cave. In 1929, King Khai Dinh (Nguyen
dynasty) visited Dau Go cave and was awed by its beauty. His
praise in writing is carved on a stone stele at the entrance
of the cave.
Pelican Cave (Hang
Bo Nau)
Unlike Dau Go
cave, Bo Nau cave is not as deep and large. Looking
out from the cave the visitor can enjoy the scenic beauty of
Ha Long. The clear blue water with rocky formations rising
forms a picturesque setting. Bo Nau is a compound word
derived from two words, bo cau meaning pigeon and nau
meaning brown. Bo Nau literally means brown pigeon. For some
reason, many foreign translations refer to this cave as
Pelican cave.
According to the fishermen in this region, long ago, when
there were still few visitors, Bo Nau cave was home to
thousands of pigeons. Today as more visitors and people
begin to inhabit the surrounding islands, the pigeons have
left until only the name Bo Nau remains out of habit of the
local fishermen.
Hang Trinh Nu
(Virgin Cave)
Hang
Trinh Nu or the
Virgin is also known as Mid Gate cave. According to local
lore, an old couple lived here long ago. The husband made a
living fishing around the bay. They were very poor. They had
only one daughter. She grew up to be a beautiful young
woman, so beautiful that people from all around knew of her.
There were many suitors and her reputation reached the local
mandarin. The mandarin immediately sent his soldier to her
home to capture her. She was forced to marry the old
mandarin.
After much cajoling and threats the fair maiden still
steadfastly refused. One day, she escaped from the mandarins
home, however she was afraid to return home for fear of
retaliation. After much thought, the maiden decided to go to
Mid Gate cave to commit suicide. Her body turned into the
stone statue lying atop a flat surface. Since then, Mid Gate
cave became known as Virgin cave.
Virgin cave tunnels through the middle of an island
approximately 2 km long. Along the tunnel, there are many
chambers. Each is famous for a different reason. All are
unique in their beauty. Many visitors to the cave are awed
by its beauty and so the name Hang Sung Sot was given to the
outer chamber of the Virgin cave. Sung Sot literally means
astonishment or awe.
Cave of Awe
(Hang Sung Sot)
Sung Sot
cave is on the same island with Trinh Nu cave. The path to
Sung Sot is quite steep and is lined with shady trees. The
cave has 2 chambers. The outer chamber is square and is
often referred to as the waiting room. The cave's ceiling is
approximately 30 m high. The walls are almost perfectly
smooth as if it was built by man. The walls generate a
variety of colors that blend with the setting of the area.
The path to the inner chamber is approximately 3m wide. The
inner chamber is known as the serene castle. The formations
in the chamber take the form of sentries conversing with one
another, animals in varying poses etc. In the middle of the
chamber stands a formation which resembles a general
surveying his troops.
There is a side entrance which is approximately 6m in
height. The light reflected from the moving water outside
causes the formations inside the chamber to seemingly come
alive. According to the locals, this was the reason the cave
was named Sung Sot, from the awe-stricken reaction of the
visitors to the cave
Other attractions
in Ha Long Bay
Dong Hang Hanh
tunnels through mount Quang Hanh 9 km from the township of
Cam Pha. The tunnel and cave is approximately 2 km in
length.
To visit this cave the visitors must take a small row boat
to access the entrance. On the way the rower must maneuver
through a variety of rock formation often so narrow that
only one boat can fit through at a time.
The air in the tunnel is several degrees cooler than the air
outside. As one proceed deeper into the cave, the
surroundings become more mystifying as the rocky walls take
different shapes, sizes, and hues. Hang Hanh contains many
formations. One formation takes the form of a drum (for
water)
called Ang gao.
One looks like a temple with millions of diamond-like
crystals as its outer layer. There are several columns of
rocks that look like remnants of buildings from some ancient
world. These monoliths are several stories high. Theres also
a formation of a natural amphitheater in the middle of the
water with smaller formations in place as the audience.
Ao Tien or Pond of the Nymphs, was named by the
locals because it was rumored this is where the nymphs
gathered to take a bath. The limestone walls surrounds this
part of the ocean creating a natural pond in the middle of
the bay. Ao Tien is located in an island with a lagoon-like
setting, surrounded by limestone walls, accessible only by
small row boats and only in low tides. During high tide, the
water rise to cover the opening and keep the water here
clean. The water in Ao Tien is only chest deep and very
warm. During low tide visitors can disembark from the bigger
boat and use a row boat to enter Ao Tien. Some visitors even
swim through the opening without using a boat. Many tourists
use Ao Tien as a place to sunbathe and wade.
Like Ao tien, Hang Luon is in the middle of rock
formations the center of which is an open area where the
water is clear and calm. There is also a sandy beach.
However, Hang luon's opening is substantially bigger than
the opening of Ao Tien. Depending on the tide, a large boat
can go through the tunnel.
Tuan Chau
island or Sentinel Chau Island is 3 km west of Dau Go cave.
The island is approximately 3 km2. This island is inhabited
by people. The nurturing hands of humans have turned this
island into a fertile farm producing vegetables and fruits
for the outlying mining and fishing villages of Ha Long Bay.
According to the inhabitants, Tuan Chau is a derivative of
two words. Before the revolutionary war, each island was
under the surveillance of an officer. Each was in charge of
a group of sentinels assigned to keep security for one
island in the bay. There were several of such officers
assigned to Ha Long. The Vietnamese words, linh tuan means
sentinel(s) and tri Chau means mandarin (officer) Chau,
hence the combination of the two words
means Tuan Chau
or Sentinel Chau.
There is a bamboo hut on the island that has became a
shrine, since it was rumored that this place was favored by
Ho Chi Minh when he visited Ha Long. The hut is maintained
and kept by the people of the island. Today visitors to the
island can visit the hut as if it was a historical monument.
Poem Mountain stands over the city of Hon Gai. On his
visit to Ha Long, King Le Thanh Tong (15th century) wrote a
poem glorifying Ha Long's beauty. This poem is carved on a
stele on Nui Truyen Dang which was later renamed Nui Bai Tho
or Poem Mountain. The King was a poet and the person
responsible for forming the group of intellectuals, Tao Dan
Nhi Thap Bat Tu, or Tao Dan twenty-eight scholars.
Cua Ong Temple is located on a hill over looking Bai
Tu Long Bay. The temple was built as a shrine to mandarin
Tran Quoc Tang, the son of Vietnams most famous general Tran
Hung Dao.
In 1283, during the height of the war against Mongolia, Tran
Quoc Tang was sent here to build a fort to defend this
frontier. This area was known for its rough and less than
ideal conditions. Tran Quoc Tang created a government here
and turned the area into a prosperous place. Tran Quoc Tang
was made supreme commander and became one of Vietnams most
successful general. During this period, there were many
bands of outlaws and pirates harassing the people in this
region. General Tang successfully wiped out many of these
bandits and brought peace to this area. He was also
successful in keeping the great Mongolian army at bay during
their numerous attempt to invade Vietnam. The people revered
him so much that he became a demigod to them. So much
reverence was given to general Tang that he was dubbed King
of the Sea while he was still alive!
General Tang died in 1313 at the age of 61. The people in
the region mourned his passing and built a shrine in his
honor. Today, the words Great Eastern Sea King are still
imprinted on the placard at the entrance of the temple. Den
Cua Ong was built in the Le dynasty (17th century), but was
later remodeled in the Nguyen dynasty (17th - 19th century).
Every year during Tet, Vietnamese new year, the people in
this area have a festival to celebrate and honor General
Tang.